![]() ![]() Such a gem can display a striking “fountain of light” effect. Also, since they tend to be deeper than other cuts, they allow cutters to maximize rough and concentrate on color.īarions with round brilliant pavilions, compared to other pavilion shapes, offer greater light discipline inside the gem. Barions eliminate the bowtie extinction effect. The arrangement of Barion-cut facets also creates a characteristic cross-shaped pattern at the center of the stone. Their unifying feature, which separates the Barion from mixed cuts, is the quarter moon facets located directly beneath its girdle. Some have brilliant facets on both crown and pavilion, while others have step cuts on the crown and brilliant cuts on the pavilion. Barion cut and before and after photos by Peter Torraca. However, Barion cuts can come in almost any shape and vary widely in their facet arrangements.Ī commercially cut, triangle-cut green zircon is recut into a custom Barion triangle by Peter Torraca. This typically results in far greater brilliance than other methods. Essentially, it places a round brilliant pavilion into a fancy shaped gem. While a mixed cut, the Barion cut also deserves a category of its own. Studies have shown that the reverse, a step-cut crown over a brilliant-cut pavilion, will often produce the greatest brilliance. This ancient technique is still used in Sri Lanka. The Ceylon cut has a step-cut pavilion and a brilliant-cut crown. 1900s topaz and diamond necklace with topaz briolette pendant. During Victorian times, jewelers often drilled these then-popular gems to use as beads for pendants and earrings. It also resembles a fully rounded pear or a double-rose cut. Briolette CutĪnother notable vintage cut, the briolette is a faceted teardrop. ![]() 3.23-ctw) and white brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. Ear climbers in 18K yellow gold with rose-cut diamonds (approx. Rose cuts are now making a comeback due to their vintage appeal. Over subsequent centuries, many jewelry owners had their rose-cut diamonds recut into more fashionable shapes. It’s not nearly as bright as a modern brilliant. 157-160 round rose, 161 oval rose, 162 drop rose, 164 side view of rose. For 16th-century cutters, roses maximized the use of flat rough and created gems with more brilliance than previously seen. While the number of facets on each rose cut varies, the face-up shape is almost always circular. Triangular facets rise to form a shape like a faceted mound. However, this isn’t a standard cutting method). (Occasionally, you’ll see a gem with a faceted pavilion and a domed crown. Dating back to the 16th century, the rose cut has a round, cabbed flat base and a faceted top. While brilliant and step cuts currently enjoy the most popularity, the rose cut is a unique style important to gem-cutting history. A triangular gem can have many or few facets, much or little brilliance and scintillation, etc. Of course, you can also find variations within all shapes. A square step cut with beveled corners is an Asscher cut. For example, a square modified brilliant is a princess cut. Shape and Style Combinationsįaceters can combine the above cutting styles with almost any shape. Mixed cuts may even combine cabbing and faceting techniques. They have brilliant facets on the crown and step facets on the pavilion, or vice versa. Mixed cuts combine step cut and brilliant cut styles. These are popular because they show off the stone’s color and clarity and produce a subtle gleam. Examples of step cuts include emerald and baguette cuts. Step cuts consist of rectangular facets that ascend the crown and descend the pavilion in steps. ![]() As befits its name, the brilliant cut gives off the most scintillation of any cut. The Three Basic Gem Cutting Styles Brilliant Cutīrilliant cuts consist of triangular and kite-shaped facets that spread outward from the center of the gem. (1) Round brilliant, top view (2) Oval brilliant, top view (3) Rose cut, top view (4) Round brilliant, side view (5) Cushion brilliant, top view (6) Rose cut, side view (7) Step cut, octagon (8) Pear brilliant, top view (9) Step cut, oblong (10) High cabochon, side view (11) Cabochon, side view (12) Lentil-shaped, side view. Faceters can combine these styles to create many different gem designs.Ī trilliant-cut smoky quartz, 8.92 cts, 14.05 x 14.05 x 8.69mm. For example, a “round brilliant diamond” has a round shape but a brilliant cutting style. The three most basic cutting styles are brilliant, step, and mixed. These cuts are also known as gem cutting styles. While some cut names may describe the face-up shape of the finished gem, others refer to the shape and arrangement of the gem’s facets. ![]()
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